Paint them whatever colour you want to. While some people might have an issue with you playing the Blood Angels codex with actual Dark Angel models ie Space Marines with robes and Dark Angles insignia painted as Dark Angels, it really doesn't matter. The obvious answer is Citadel, which is the brand supplied by Games Workshop. Other popular brands are Vallejo, Cote d'arms they are the same as the old citadel brand and army painter.
In Warhammer 40k, exactly how screwed are the Eldar? Miniature games. Do you have to paint Warhammer figures a certain color? With that in mind, this is a comprehensive guide that offers up a parade-ready miniature-painting marathon — I hope you find it useful! Some love it, some hate it.
You can very easily make mistakes. Pay too little attention to your instructions and you can stick the wrong pieces together, in the wrong places, at the wrong times.
This results in you having to rip your model apart for emergency reconstructive surgery, ruining its otherwise tidy looks by disrupting the still-drying plastic cement. Pay attention to the assembly of your model, and think ahead. Painting via sub-assembly painting separate portions of the model on their own, before gluing them all together is the best way to get the tidiest, cleanest results when painting, and that should be addressed at the build stage. Imperator vult: Read our guide to the 40k Imperium factions.
You might find that putting together the body of a soldier and keeping the arms and head separate gives you more room and maneuverability. Whichever way you choose to build, be careful to not overload with glue, and make sure you let things dry before fiddling. The worst thing you can do is disturb a part and have it fall to pieces, spreading half-dried glue everywhere. Just stay calm, clean off any excess glue or melty plastic — then re-apply a probably smaller amount of glue and try again. You want to get a strong, adhesive undercoat down on the model so that the subsequent layers you put on top have something sticky to hold onto, rather than the smooth glossy plastic.
You can do this in three ways. The first is via the brush — use thinned down primer to apply an all-over coat to your model. Just be careful not to clog the finer detailed parts with paint, and to be consistent with your brushstrokes. The one thing to watch out for with can-spraying is that your finish is heavily dependent on the temperature of the room.
Too cold or too warm and the paint will not look good. Now, airbrushing is a technique you can use in all kinds of ways. Start collecting: Our guide to 40k combat patrol starter boxes. Undercoating with an airbrush is by far the best way to get a perfect, smooth finish of primer on your models.
To summarise: a thin, adhesive coat to cover the bare plastic, applied via brush, can or airbrush. You can see what a smooth finish you can get with an airbrush on these Bladeguard Veterans from the Warhammer 40K Indomitus box set. If your little plastic person is a house, the undercoat is your foundation. Force organisation: Check out our 40k detachments guide. The foundations are hidden, but important. This was primed using Vallejo Black primer, through the airbrush.
You would be able to see a difference between the two types of black colour I was using. The same goes for every shade. Not every red or blue or green is made equal — the changes will show. Whichever you choose, be careful not to clog details, just as before; base-coating is about achieving a smooth, consistent basic colour on each distinct area of the model, each of which can then come to three-dimensional life later on.
The key to success here is patience: the patience to thin your paint down with a goodly amount of water and lay down at least two thin coats of each base paint, letting each one dry on its respective portion of the model, before applying the next. For the Black Templar above, for example, the black armour is by far your dominant colour.
You can do all the base colours in one stage, or proceed through the other stages on one section of the model, before returning to base-coat the others later.. Usually, the shading stage is when your model first starts to truly come together before your eyes. Shading is an essential process for any model, but once again there are many ways you can complete this key step.
The primary method I use to tackle this is using Citadel Shade washes. These are fantastic, low-viscosity liquids that come in a variety of different colours, and which easily run into all the recesses, nooks and crannies of your model.
Book yourself in: Our 40k 9th edition codex release date guide. This often dries much more consistently than a Citadel Shade, especially on flatter areas. The other is Citadel Contrast Paints, which are fantastic in their admittedly limited uses. These are much thicker, gloopier liquids to work with. Sometimes you get a used model with a bad paint job and you have to refurbish it.
How do you refurbish and repaint a used model or miniature? But, I was given a commission project to do a complete refurbish with a tight deadline. The issue with used models is that they often come in various states of disrepair. Some are badly painted or broken. You may be lucky and get used models in good condition, but these tend to sell a close to new prices. In this particular case, you can pay for someone like me to fix and repaint your miniatures. As you will see below, this is exactly what I did for a client with a particular spin that he wanted me to finish the project in less than a week.
At our local game store, a new visitor asked if I could restore and repaint his Cygnar Stormwall colossal. He gave me a time limit of 6 days until our next gaming night.
I accepted! This impulsive nature of mine needs to stop. It often gets me in trouble with my hobby. There was that one time when I tried to paint an entire 10, point Tyranid army with a small point 1 sized brush….
I gave up and ended up using multiple airbrushes for the project. The first thing you have to do with any used miniature before a repaint is perform an inspection.
For example, when you buy a used car, you want to make sure it works. The same is true for used models that have bad paint jobs. You need to figure out whether you should strip the paint down to the original surface, or if you can simply re-prime over the old paint.
After a quick survey of the used colossal I decided stripping the paint would be too time consuming. A Warmachine Colossal is a large model with multiple complex parts. For this used model, my inspection confirmed that the best course of action was to re-prime over the old paint job.
Before priming a used model, you should make sure the surface is as even as possible. In other words, the original surface of the miniature should be intact and as close to new as possible. Any cracks or chips in the model should be smoothed out or filled in. This particular model was in bad shape. The model had torn and chipped paint, poorly glued pieces, and cracks in the resin. This meant a bit of scraping to smooth out the underpainting, re-gluing parts, and filling gaps. For glues, I used super glue as recommended for resin , and my favorite gap filler, Vallejo Plastic Putty.
0コメント